Picardy Wight garlic is a softneck garlic originating from the province of Picardy in northern France and is known for its fierce flavor, great keeping, and ease of cultivation in cooler, wetter climates like ours. If you like your garlic strong, then this is the variety for you!
|Germination||7 - 14 Days|
|Sowing Method||Direct to Ground|
|Greenhouse / Polytunnel||Optional for Early Crop|
|Seed Count||2 Bulbs|
|Recommended Soil pH||5.0-6.0|
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Adapted to cooler and wetter conditions, Picardy Wight garlic will grow anywhere in the UK that has proved a challenge to other garlic. In northern France it is plaited and smoked due to its longevity and superior, strong flavour. Beautiful with its distinct pinkish hue, Picardy Wight is an excellent braiding garlic and will store well long past April if kept cool and dry.
Can be planted in the autumn but better planted in the spring.
All garlic is super easy to plant. Merely split it into individual cloves and plant each clove upright (i.e. with the flat base down) in well-drained soil at a depth twice their height. Ideal spacing between cloves is around 15cm/6”.
You can plant Picardy White either in the fall or the spring, but unlike other garlics, this variety does especially well spring-planted. Either way, if you planted before March your Picardy Wight garlic should be ready to harvest by mid-July.
To protect your cloves after planting, it’s often helpful to mulch. Fallen leaves or weed-free straw is ideal. Also, the more manure and/or organic waste you conditioned your beds with, the larger and happier the bulbs will be.
Note: Garlic can be planted as a perennial as well as an annual if you’re wanting it for greens. It will re-sprout annually. It’s also excellent for intercropping.
Garlic needs very little after care once planted. If you planted in soils rich with compost and/or well-rotted manure, your garlic should need very little feeding (if any). If your soil is not particularly fertile, side dress with compost February through April. Our wet climate generally provides more than enough water for garlic crops, so no extra watering tends to be necessary unless there’s a drought. (If there is a drought, however, don’t let your garlic dry out—irrigate accordingly.)
Otherwise just keep your garlic bed weed free and nip off any flower buds that appear (to redirect energy to the bulbs). Keep the area weed-free until the foliage turns yellow in mid-summer.
Garlic is ready to harvest when two or more leaves have withered each plant. Simply loosen the plants from the soil with a trowel and lift, being careful not to score the bulb itself. Let the garlic bulbs lay out somewhere dry and warm for a day before hanging them. Once they’ve cured for a day, brush the dirt off of the bulbs and hang in a cool, dry place, in plaits if you wish.
Note: Don’t let the garlic stay in the ground too long after the foliage has withered—the bulbs may re-sprout and then rot when stored.
Cloves planted in late autumn will be ready late June through mid-July. Spring-planted garlic will be ready slightly later.
Note: You can keep your largest cloves as a seed crop for next year’s garlic!